Saying Haute Couture was born for less than 500 women worldwide is probably not true, because this luxury fashion line also gives millions of fashion-loving hearts their dreams and strong beliefs. paralysis. Only returning to the regular show model this past July, Paris Haute Couture has undergone many changes, which seem to have changed the dream, or more precisely what we expected of Haute Couture.
Haute couture of the new normal vitality overflowing from rebirth and renewal
The pandemic has changed all that now that transcontinental travel or lavish parties have not yet returned to the way they were before, but either way, the wheel still has to roll. Haute Couture also has to change to adapt to reality. One thing that is easy to see in the two leading brands Chanel
and Dior is that both female creative directors focus more on everyday wear and less on evening wear in the latest Fall-Winter Haute Couture collection. Designs that use decorative techniques such as beading and feathers have given way to the focus of dress and form techniques.
Former creative director Marc Bohan’s imprint on Maria Grazia Chiuri’s designs was revealed in this Haute Couture collection by Dior. Maria Grazia drew inspiration from the ultra-smooth cuts and contours typical of 1960s Dior into coats and skirts made of warm thick materials.
Most significantly, this is the first time the bar jacket has been modeled closest to the original Christian Dior design with the lower body being more open. Her fairy mark was condensed in the design of a see-through tulle gown with feathers that appeared at last, as beautiful as a fairy in William Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night ‘s Dream.
At Chanel, Virginie Viard looked back to the pre-World War II period and two female artists Berthe Morisot and Marie Laurencin to create a collection with a romantic nostalgic spirit about Coco Chanel in her youth. The shoulder is the main highlight with high and wide padding but soft curves, showing the portrait of a strong but still very feminine modern woman.
As usual, Chanel still has beautiful tweed suits to every fiber. As an indispensable part of her couture collections, Chanel’s wedding dress this time is closely related to Coco Chanel when it is designed based on the dress she wore in the 30s.
When you reach the end of a beauty, you don’t need to change anymore, and this is true of Armani Privé . One can feel the repetition, but there is no denying their beauty, elegance and nobility. Opening with the blue tones of the famous mystical night, Armani condenses everything about its brand through a tailored velvet jacket that hugs the body, with pointed shoulders, missed sleeves, and silk pants.
The iridescent and flexible material like water was used by him for the first time since 2011 back, exuding the ultimate luxury without the need for elaborate attachments. Even with the most dramatic and sophisticated designs of the BST, the tiered organza dresses look so fluttery and dreamy.
Valentino’s collection is a balance in every sense, between applied art and fashion, namely applied Haute Couture. The venue for the show is the port of Gaggiandre in Venice creating a picturesque atmosphere by De Chirico. In an artful space, the collection is masterful painting inspired by the works of 17 artists under the curator Gianluigi Ricuperati’s selection.
This is the second time Pierpaolo Piccioli has combined couture for both men and women. In terms of design, he continues the strength of color and the voluptuousness in the characteristic form. There is sophistication in streamlining, specifically the technique of stitching fabric on designs with simple shapes.
In stark contrast, Fendi ‘s Kim Jones offers a luxurious Haute Couture collection expressed through classic silhouettes and meticulous decorative techniques. Decorative motifs simulating mosaic techniques are applied on designs for men and women with mother of pearl and fur materials. The technique of joining different materials to create seamless patterns regardless of rough lines is also a highlight for Kim Jones’ second couture collection at Fendi.
If the designers mentioned above are beautiful examples of the concept of “friendly Haute Couture” for everyday life, somewhere there are still collections that are full of ego and freedom. More than just maximalism, Schiaparelli ‘s latest Couture collection offers maximalism in a surreal way.
In recent times, designer Daniel Roseberry has made a remarkable mark at Schiaparelli with extremely impressive jewelry, and this time is no exception. The jewelry simulates body parts from ears, eyes, lungs to breasts. Schiapparelli is perhaps the only fashion house this season to offer lavish evening gowns with the generous silhouettes of Haute Couture’s signature silk taffeta ball gowns.
The new muse of the French design world Charles de Vilmorin turned 180 degrees with the all-black collection, in contrast to the previous colorful painter. But that doesn’t mean that the collection has lost its poetic quality, it’s just that the romance becomes magical with the association of witches in black. It’s not hard to see this 24-year-old designer wanting to make the quilting technique his personal signature with a face design incorporating rooster feathers.
This Fall-Winter Haute Couture Week welcomes a new guest, Pyer Moss from New York – the first black designer to appear in the schedule of Paris Haute Couture. Designer Kerby Jean – Raymond has brought a collection containing political messages, expressing pride in his black community when each design in the collection is associated with an invention of color people used in daily life. You can question their aesthetic, but the collection is still outstanding, impressive and memorable.
Seeing favorite names return to the catwalk is one of the happiness for fashionistas. The name worth mentioning is none other than Balenciagawhen this brand returns to the Haute Couture game after more than 50 years of absence. The collection is a combination of two parts: Cristóbal Balenciaga’s original designs are recreated from the perspective of Demna Gvasalia and Couture is the current creative director’s own street style.
In addition to jackets and evening gowns made from top-notch materials and tailoring techniques, Demna’s denim and cotton Couture t-shirt ideas generated a wide range of opinions. It is still too early to say whether Demna’s Couture vision will succeed or fail, but if we look back at the success of his controversy since entering Balenciaga until now, we can somewhat predict it. Okay.
After a year of mysterious “disappearance” from the Haute Couture catwalk, John Gallianocontinues to introduce Maison Margiela’s Artisanal line in a new format. Instead of holding a show or launching a lookbook, he released a short fashion film to communicate his ideas. A master storyteller, Galliano tells a historic tale of Mother Nature’s call.
It’s undeniably a beautiful and inspiring film, but it’s hard to appreciate the beauty of each design. Even so, we can still find the mark of Martin Margiela, namely the mirror dress inspired by the original discoball shirt. Based on the Spring – Summer 2022 collection which is also a fashion film, we can predict the brand’s new direction through movies instead of the catwalk as before.
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