The fashionistas and designers always find inspiration and connection from the multi-dimensional characters successfully built on the screen, and with that, the costumes that the people “were very proud of”. real” he appeared on himself.
Since when and why did the fashion world fall in love with cinema?
At the Oscars 2022, the award for Best Costume Design went to Jenny Beavan and Cruella . In addition to the eye-catching costumes that she made for the film, the “sheep” of the fashion world were also excited by the appearance of the Capucines handbag that Louis Vuitton collaborated and designed specifically for women. actress Emma Stone – brand ambassador of the company.
In the documentary Unzipped (1995) , fashion designer Isaac Mizrahi once shared the following about his favorite Call of the Wild (1935) movie : “ The heroine [played by Loretta Young] was abandoned. left alone in the extreme tundra for her husband to find food. [Character of] actor Clark Gable discovers her in a state of four days alone, surrounded by cold, and near death.
But when the camera zooms in on her face, [true to the splendor of Hollywood cinema at the time], it’s a perfectly made-up face – with glowing skin, flawless eyebrows. writing, well-crafted lip liner and hair – I must say amazing! “. Frozen scene with cold costumesin the film became the inspiration for the Autumn – Winter 1994 collection of the brand named after him.
Not only Isaac Mizrahi, fashion designers have always placed cinema in a special position in their hearts. In their eyes, cinema is like a precious art treasure. The costumes that stars and actors wear on their favorite movies often make an indelible impression in terms of visuals, characters and themes, helping to evoke many emotions in them. From there, the designers will draw unique colors, shapes and materials to create a special charm in each collection.
We can mention the list of movies that Hedi Slimane ( Céline ‘s Creative Director ) has shared with the community on the MUBI online movie viewing platform. These include classics such as Paris, Texas (1984), Charade (1963) , or Pierrot Le Fou (1965) . Another example is an image taken from Blue Velvet (1986) , printed on the designs of Raf Simons’ Menswear Fall – Winter 2019 collection
because he was a fervent fan of director David Lynch. Or as Vertigo (1958, directed by Alfred Hitchcock) was the inspiration for Alexander McQueen ‘s Fall-Winter 2005 collection . At the same time, The Royal Tenenbaums (2001, directed by Wes Anderson) left a special mark in the Menswear Spring – Summer 2017 collection of Creative Director Alessandro Michele for Gucci .
On the contrary, the history of cinema must also recognize important contributions from many elite minds of the fashion industry, helping to bring back moments that have become classics and are ingrained in the hearts and memories of any person. who considers themselves a follower of this art form.
Mentioning here, you will probably think of actress Audrey Hepburn and her relationship with designer Hubert de Givenchy . Audrey’s timeless, elegant beauty in the movies Sabrina (1954), Funny Face (1957) , or Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961)would be inseparable from the dresses that Givenchy had designed specifically for her.
But most of all, it’s Givenchy’s boundless understanding and love for Audrey to reflect the genuine and gracious food that is always present in the legendary actress herself, conveyed by Audrey with deep empathy. with each character that she plays, hiding behind the acting tricks in each film she devotes all her heart to.
The friendship between a Hollywood star and a favorite fashion house is also the costume that Christian Dior designed for Marlene Dietrich in the movie Stage Fright (1950) . And today, those are some of the costumes and accessories from CHANEL that actress Kristen Stewart – brand ambassador – wore in the movies Clouds of Sils Maria (2014), Personal Shopper (2016) , and more This is most notably Spencer (2021) – the film that helped her receive a nomination for the Best Actress category at the Oscars 2022 .
The predestined relationship between CHANEL and cinema dates back to the 1930s, when the brand’s founder, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel , accepted an invitation to design costumes for some of Samuel’s films. Goldwyn. Although the most famous designers of the early 20th century such as Schiaparelli , Lanvin, or Lucille Toray, etc. also contributed to cinema
but it was not until 1949 that the American Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences (Oscars) changed it. for the first time to recognize achievements and award prizes for the contributions of costume designers. However, today’s fashionistas still can’t help but feel uneasy when it comes to the poetic and beautiful dresses that Gabrielle Chanel designed for the character of actress Delphine Seyrig in the movie Last Year at Marienbad (1961)., and is also the main inspiration for the Spring – Summer 2011 collection of Creative Director Karl Lagerfeld during his lifetime.
However, the role of a costume designer is not only to “take care” of the appearance of stars and superstar actors. It’s also the costumes and shapes for all the characters appearing on the film – from the backing actors for a small segment that no one cares about, to the supporting characters who interact with the main character.
This is the biggest difference, barrier and challenge when fashion designers participate in a movie project. If in the role of Creative Director of a big brand, fashion designers are familiar with the role of “general director” for a collection, selecting models, creating ideas for stages, catwalks …, then. In a movie, they will have to follow the vision of the film crew and, perhaps, play a rather minor role in the shaping of the project.
Costume designers need time to read the script to understand each character, detail, period and story context shown on the page – which does not necessarily revolve around the flashy beauty of the main actor. In order to make the costumes in the movie, they will have to closely communicate not only with the director
but also a long-term cooperation process with the scene designers, lighting experts, visual directors, operators. camera… to make their designs blend (or shine) at the right time, with the visual direction of the film. And more importantly, how once an actor puts on a costume, they will immediately transform into the character – with all the feelings about the family background, personality, habits, psychology and behavior of the character. that thing.
The same script, but each director will have different eyes, vision and expression through the cinematic language. In the case of the movie Spencer (2021) , costume designer Jacqueline Durran did not choose to copy exactly the clothes that Princess Diana once appeared in public.
Instead, she and the film crew researched images and documentary footage of Diana, from which to choose the typical elements that make up the distinctive style of the Princess of Wales, and create the costumes are not 100% identical, but will easily remind of Diana’s spirit and manners in the viewer’s mind.
Although designer Tom Ford was the director of two movies A Single Man (2009) and Nocturnal Animals (2016) , which were highly appreciated by critics, he commissioned the film’s entire costume design. for Arianne Phillips. Although the clothes worn by Colin Firth, Julianne Moore or Amy Adams in the film are all his designs, Tom Ford once told AnOther magazine: “Just like other directors/writers, I always have specific visions of how my character will appear and dress in the movie. The responsibility of a costume designer is completely different from when you design clothes for a fashion collection. Arianne Phillips has played a big role, helping to bring about a precise and coherent view that I would not have been able to do alone when directing the film .”
However, cinema is still a playground that many famous fashion designers choose to try. If Jean Paul Gaultier designed more than 1,000 costumes for the characters in the movie The Fifth Element (1997) , many other fashion houses often choose a “safer” solution when collaborating with directors and designers.
costume for the main character in the movie. It could be a completely new design, or a flip through the archives to bring the brand’s classic designs to life on screen. The cinema-loving public can’t take their eyes off the minimalist outfits designed by Raf Simons for Tilda Swinton in I Am Love (2009) and A Bigger Splash (2015) , Miuccia Prada with Carey Mulligan’s Daisy Buchanan inThe Great Gatsby (2013) , Giorgio Armani with the dapper suits for Richard Gere in American Gigolo (1980) , Yves Saint Laurent and the muse Catherine Deneuve in Belle Du Jour (1967) , or the legendary black dress of the actress member Monica Vitti in La Notte (1961) designed by Valentino .
But above all, hidden deep in each fabric, seam and workmanship that make up the value of these costumes is also the perspective and ideal of designers when observing life. Those are the images of the mood, identity and culture of individuals who put on their creations, but invisibly, cinema is a magical guide.
Because cinema is a special dimension, it is an intersection between stories and fictional characters that originate from the reality around us, is a blend of the past – present – and future, is the heartbeat. prompting reflections on the worldview in the way of seeing and behaving in life. Not only designers, devotees always look to cinema to shape their own perspective on the ego and style they choose to display in front of the crowd.
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